Prep the handlebar per instructions: Cut it off just outside the switch cluster.   You need not remove the switch cluster, but be careful not to scratch or damage its outside face. 
This part does not change, cut and file smooth as per existing instructions.

1. Make sure that inside of the handlebar is free of rust or oil, and that there are no stud ends or other obstructions inside the bar for the first 3 inches. If you see anything, file it flush with the handlebar's inside diameter. 11/16" diameter by 3" deep.

2. Remove the bolt from the Clutch FlatBar and put some blue locktite on the threads. Reinstall the bolt, just tight enough so sides should be cylindrical. Do not give the upper grommet a beer barrel shape.

3. Put a small amount of the included adhesive on the outside of both expander grommets, and also on top of any blue spacer/shim tape that you have pre-fitted...a thin slathering is enough because it foams and expands. Dampness is enough water to activate Gorilla Glue, which is a 2-part urethane (the second part is the moisture). It foams up as it solidifies and locks everything in place. 

4. Push the FlatBar in with the allen key engaged in the bolt head, which will push on the (now captive) nut. The leading grommet will stretch and cave in a little like an apple core. When done this way, the adhesive will actually act as a lubricant, so the grommets slide right in up to the blade.

When using the older external nut set: As received, it has its own adhesive disks, and will not push off of the assembly when pressed forward with the allen key. Remove the bolt, apply Blue locktite to the threads and tighten the bolt back into the nut set until it is the way you received it, butted up against the top of the upper grommet. The grommet should not be bellied out. If it is, back off the bolt a little. If you just push in the whole FlatBar & grommet set into the handlebar, the leading grommet will belly outward like a beer barrel, making installation difficult. If the bolt and nut assembly is on too loosely, the bolt will push the nut set away from the leading grommet. That's trouble. Remove the bolt as far as you can (at least free it from the nut), then pull out the entire FlatBar. Dispose of everything except the FlatBar and its grip. Drill out the grommets and start over.*

5. Tighten the bolt well (you'll feel it want to stop when it fills the entire space as intended).

If necessary, Shim with blue damper tape. You want a a snug fit with no wrinkles. (See throttle photo 12.)

6. Let everything set. Wait an hour until the adhesive is well cured. Put the allen key in your tool set. After it's cured you can rotate the clutch FlatBar to suit your taste and riding style, as long as you don't rotate it more than 1/2 turn. It cannot come out of the handlebar. If necessary, re-tighten the bolt. The thumb notch should always be toward you.

*A full replacement set of bolt and grommets will be sent via express mail for $10, $15 to Canada. The cost is to cover express Shipping, Handling and Customs. Parts are free under warranty for 5 years. After your 5 year warranty expires, the clutch grommet part set will be $15 plus S/H.

INSTALLING THE THROTTLE SIDE

1. Remove the throttle rotor and grip from the throttle housing. There are 2 screws on the back or bottom of the switch cluster. Replace and tighten the empty switch cluster.

2. Measure 1/4” from the switch cluster outer face (leave extra length for a the width of a throttle lock); Make a mark.

3. Cut through the metal handlebar. Make sure your cut is straight thorough the bar, not angled. Cut a little long; square it and take it back to the mark with your belt sander.

4. Smooth any burrs on the outside. Using a round file, smooth any internal burrs or protrusions, (stud ends) so the hole is empty and clear for 3". Pre-fit the Throttle FlatBar and shim as necessary.

5. Use the Installation tool for throttle rotor conversion, or tape the template (below) onto the throttle tube as noted.

6. Cut off the end of the plastic rotor tube at the top of the tool or the line on the template (.88”). Clean up the edges.

7. Using the tool or the template, dremel four slots where indicated. The slot centerline/hole centers are 1/4“ in from the cut edge. Slots allow for complete rotational adjustments, the holes yield somewhat less adjustability.

7(a). Four slots spaced 90 degrees apart are to be created; place the drill at the center of each slot shown. Start with a small pilot hole. The tool comes with a roto-zip bit. 7. Re-install the altered throttle rotor into the switch housing, loosely clamp the housing on the bar.

8. Slide the pre-sized FlatBar throttle into the cut off handlebar and pre-drilled rotor, until you see the screwholes thru the slots.

9. Return the throttle switch cluster to its original position.

10. Tighten the throttle switch cluster mounting screws .

11. FlatBar Tuning: start out with the far edge of the FlatBar slightly above the near edge. This will put the throttle at a pleasing angle on the road. Adjust as necessary WHEN STOPPED.

12. Screw in the 4 throttle screws and washers thru the throttle rotor into the FlatBar. Use every other hole, with one screw in each slot. The screws should be tight enough to keep the throttle from turning within the rotor or vibrating loose.

13. Take a short ride to check your throttle angle. Get to your normal highway speed. Your wrist should be neutral at your normal speed.

14. Stop and re-adjust if necessary. Put green (wicking) locktite on the screws. Tighten them down, but don’t strip the phillips.

15. Pull the grip up over the screw heads. 16. Take most of the slack out of the throttle cables.
Finished. Enjoy!

Contact Ken Hunter for Installation questions, or call 415-786-6312.

PRODUCTS