Some Answers to your Questions
Q: How do I install them?
A: Installation time should be one hour or less at a shop. The kits are simple to install. An Allen key is included in the clutch package. We also include a couple of templates for measurement. To get a better idea of what it takes to do the install, see our instructions on the Installation page.
Q: What are the FlatBars made of?
A: They are cast from solid aluminum. The grips are made of a flexable foam. The solid aluminum handles transmit steering inputs thru the INSIDE of the handlebar. The Throttle side seperates the forces of steering from the rotational forces of acceleration. Both sides have specially designed vibration damping bushings, a firm flexible cushion, and thumb reliefs.
Q: What kind of tests have been run on the FlatBars?
A: The original FlatBars have total of 158,000 miles of riding, in all conditions, since I invented them in 1997. Several set of FlatBars have been in use on various bikes since '97. several improvements have been made on bushings, damping, optimizing material characteristics such as just how grippy the retention grommet should be, vs how soft its material should be. Raise one, lower the other, that's how engineering goes. FlatBars have survived amazingly well after sustaining regular and in some cases, extremely poor upkeep. FlatBars have suvived after being dropped in parking lots, fallen off kick-stands and burned in a freeak accident. (The aluminum core survived intact. The foam cushion was replaced). We run random tests on the castings before assembly.
Q: What kind of guarantee do you offer?
A: The aluminum core of our Hunter FlatBars is guaranteed for five years, including parking lot flops but not accidents while moving. The foam cushions are guaranteed for one year with normal use. Registration activates the guarantee. Some upgrades and improvements will be free or discounted to registered buyers.
Q: Ken...I'm certainly intrigued by your product. I have a 2002 ZZR 1200 Kawasaki which has a hi-frequency buzz thru the bars that for me is the Achilles Heel of this motorcycle. I've currently gone the route of extra bar end weights in addition to the stock weights and even filled the bars with lead shot to try and reduce the vibes. I'm a member of ZZR1200.net and this is a common problem with this bike. Perhaps your product offers a cure. I saw somewhere that you had something in the works that was more for anti-vibration, is that true? And do you have anything specifically for the ZZR 1200?
A: Yes, I can cure your buzzy bike. The ZZR 1200 (isn’t that what it is called in England?) shares problems, and solutions, with the Concourse. As to something more for vibration, we can supply you with a SupR DampR set, but you should be aware that the construction and damping materials are exactly the same as on the FlatBars. SupR DampRs are cylindrical, not flat, and are billet, not cast, so they are heavier. Depending on the frequencies involved, heavier means the vibrations may not be damped by the full 70% I’ve measured with the FlatBars. That’s physics. Also, you’ll only be getting half of the entire patent concept, which includes both damping and shape. I suggest that you order a pair of FlatBars over the web, and we can communicate directly as to their installation.
Q: Do I need to file off the switch cluster locating pins?
A: I don't know how long you've been riding, but 'retaining pins' did not exist before the mid 80s. What actually holds the throttle switch cluster in place are the 2 long screws that hold the halves of the switch case together. I recommend filing it down. You do need to file off anything that sticks thru to the inside of the handlebar. The original handlebar is cut to stick out of the switch cluster 1/4" to fit inside and helps stabilize the throttle rotor stub. The rotor, as you know, is only loosely clamped inside the throttle switch cluster.
Q: What holds the Throttle FlatBar in place?
A: The 2 large screws that hold the switch housing and the 4 small screws that go thru the throttle rotor into the flatbar hold everything together. The handleber and the bushings hold it axially. Any deflection is constrained by the dampers on the bushings and the ID of the handlebar in which they ride. Fit should be tight, but not so tight as to wrinkle the dampers. Remember that some of the deflection is due to the dampers compressing and working as they should.
Q: Can FlatBars be swapped from bike to bike?
A: Yes, indeed they can. I built the first 3 prototype sets in '97. One set went to the girl friend with CTS who inspired it all. One set went on Mad Max, which I've owned since 1985 (9.33@148.42). One set went on a '92 TDM-850 Yamaha, which was my test vehicle in '99: 29,680 miles, 18 countries, 3 continents in 9 months. They then went on a new Suzi Bandit 1200S. Then the went on an '02 Aprillia Caponord. Now they are on my '03 Concours.
Q: What are my options whan I want to sell my bike?
A: When you sell your bike, you have the option of buying new handlebars or our SupR DampRs. They share all of the damping mechanisms with the FlatBar, and fit the same hole. They are the same diameter as the original bars. You must also replace the throttle rotor, and buy appropriate grips of your choice. For registered FlatBar owners, they cost $85/pair.
Q: WindGuards and FlatBars: I ordered two sets of the flat bars with heaters today after we spoke on the telephone. I'm looking forward to installing them on my FJR when they arrive. The other set I thought I would put on my 02 1150 GS. The only concern I have about the GS is whether the flat bars will work without having to permanently remove the wind gaurds. (The guards, as I am sure you know are fairly effective when riding in cold or inclimate weather.) If I am unable to keep the wind gaurds I will have to pass on the second set of flat bars. Please let me know. If I can keep and still use the gaurds with the flat bars I will take the second set.
A: What about wind guards? If the wind guards are not attached at the outer end they are not a problem. Brian’s Halton’s GS had wind guards attached at the mirror mount. They were no trouble, other than having to be removed and re-installed
What about reinforced hand guards that also mount to the outer end of the bar? If hand guards are attached at the outer end of the bar, and you wish to retain them, I do not recommend FlatBars for this application. SupR DampRs would be more appropriate: They are the original diameter of your stock bars, but have all of the dampers and mount exactly the same way as clutch side Flatbars. They have much more body mass, therefore can support larger diameter bearings, etc. I do have one customer who modified a pair of FlatBars to work with Bark Busters, on a KLR 650. He has not complained.
Please take note that the hand guards might not function as intended. The forces of such an impact would be high, because the bark buster would try to lever past the switch cluster. I have not studied the stresses. He did this on his own initiative, to his own plans, and at his own risk. We bikers are inventive folks, eh?
Q: Can I re-use pre-existing heaters?
A: You probably will not be able to use your existing heaters because they’re the wrong shape. They are also intended for an application that uses most of the bike as a massive heat sink. FlatBars do not have this characteristic. Symtec re-engineer their product just for this application. Our Symtec grip heaters have a faster rise time, but a lower top power draw.
Q: What about hiding the heater wiring inside the bar?
A: Wire routing is outside the bar, depending on how fancy you want to get. With a Dremel, you could route the wires into the switch cluster, into the bar thru a hole, and out again near the triple tree. 3 wires in an extruded, flat profile plastic insulator are amenable to that type of routing…less fishing. The bar entry point must be PAST the innermost damper.
Q: Where is the best place to tie into power for the heaters on a Suzuki V-Strom? Instructions mention headlight wire, will the fuse handle the extra current?
A: The line that I mentioned is on a Concours. Wiring The Easy Way: Run a new wire from a T-tap (into the smaller red wire) (it's with the main battery positive), then to a 5 amp in-line fuse, then to the switch center lug. Be tidy where you place the new wire. Wire per the enclosed instructions. The switch itself snaps into a 1/2" hole with 2 retainers built into its shell. The heaters draw 4.5 amps on high. Somewhat harder, but a snap if you're handy: it's usually easy to find and add a T tap to a line near the headlight, on any circuit that's dead when the bike's ignition is off. The circuit that you tap into needs to have a fuse 5 amps bigger than is needed for its normal task. Consult the wiring diagram in your owner's manual. The Full Treatment: (required if the switch is mounted where the conncters can be splashed: Double up all 3 colors of wires. The red pair go to any chassis ground. Cut off the now un-needed male blade on each (female-male duplex) plug. Note: leave all 5 wires that go to the 3 male switch blades a few inches long, so you can hook up the switch outside the panel. Pot the connections with silicone sealant. Guide the wires back thru the hole, then snap in the plug.
Email questions and we'll try to get them included here in a timely manner.
